Differences

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--- projects:maico_fan [2025/11/29 14:17] – [PCB scan] admin
+++ projects:maico_fan [2025/12/01 07:39] (current) – [Bonus: the fan itself] admin
@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
+~~META:
+title=Maico ECA 100 ipro MCU replacement
+description=reverse engineering and hacking Maico fan PCB
+keywords=SEO, dokuwiki, reverse engineering, disassembly, Maico, fan, PCB, MCU, ESP, ESP8266, LDO, humidity, sensor, webinterface, WiFi, repair, hack, hacking, bathroom
+~~
 ⚠️ PAGE UNDER CONSTRUCTION!⚠️⚠
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 ===== Disclaimer =====
 ⚠️ The PCB is connected to mains 230VAC! Be aware of what you do. This is no kids game, it can be life threatening or worse if you are not careful. \\
 I am not responsible for anything you do, this is not meant to be a tutorial to mimic. It is just a write up of the steps I have taken to achieve a goal I have striven for. \\
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 ===== reverse engineering =====
 The fan consists of a 1-phase AC motor, a PCB controlling it and the shell/casing. \\
 Unmodified ECA 100 ipro series has the following hardware on PCB:
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-{{:projects:maico-fan:hardware:photos:img_20220304_153631.jpg?200|}}
+{{:projects:maico-fan:hardware:photos:img_20220304_153631.jpg?200|}} \\
 ==== logic analyzer capture ====
 The Triac is triggered by PIC16 synced to AC-wave signal (provided by opto-coupler). Triacs do not turn off automatically again if fired, unless voltage drops to 0V (or complicated circuit added). So what you see on logic analyze capture is just the triggering signal for Triac (//D0//), not its durance it is turned on. The durance is the point the Triac is triggered till signal of opto-coupler (//D1//) is low (and therefore AC-wave crossing 0V). \\
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 ==== PCB scan ====
 In 2025 I got hands on a broken PCB (due to water damage) on Kleinanzeigen, more than three years after the start of the project. I desoldered all parts and scanned the PCB for your convenience. I did not have any [[life_hacks:glue#solvent_cement|solvents]] but acetone nail polish at hand, which does not work that well with the sticky glue. What I did is heat the glue with hot-air rework station and wipe most of it off with a cloth - the mite rest was removed with acetone (nail polish). \\
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 The trace of L-line was burned up of this broken PCB, I have redrawn it in pink to show the original trace. \\
 Thanks to the PCB scan, you can see the needed points easily where to solder the wires to. \\
 ==== Board repair ====
 The broken board I got from Kleinanzeigen has (at least) burned Varistor (VDR1) and capacitor C1. Check for burned through PCB traces and replace those two parts. \\
 Also try disconnecting the original sensor (if your version has one) - the humidity sensor I got bundled with is bad too. \\
-==== original humidity sensor ====
+==== original humidity sensor ====
 Together with the broken PCBs, I got a humidity sensor (which I did not have at the time of the project). The sensor is glued into a plastic shell, the glue looks to be the same as on the backside of the PCB. \\
 The plastic cover of the housing has a rubber cover, which is cut open if a sensor is installed. Tip to close it up again: put crepe tape over the hole and close up with [[life_hacks:glue#hot_glue|hot glue]] from the other side. \\
@@ Line 93: / Line 99: @@
 Don't have a sensor (version) like me? Read on. \\
-==== PIC16 Firmware dump ====
+==== PIC16 Firmware dump ====
 As I now own a PICKit (I have not at the time of doing this project), here is the firmware dump of a PCB with humidity sensor: **<insert dump>**. \\
 I do not know if firmware differs for models w/o sensor, as the original PCB is still doing its duty in the shared flat. My //guess//: probably same firmware; the pin header is unpopulated. \\
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 ===== Hardware modification =====
 **MCU replacement**: cut traces of PIC16 (at least pins 1,2,3 and 17) or desolder completely. \\
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 ^ Pin# ^ name ^ description ^
 | 1   |    |     |
+\\
 ===== Firmware =====
 As this project was intended to be for a shared flat which I actually do not live in, I made the mistake to start the project using Arduino. Why? Actually, I don't know anymore 🤡 I wanted it to be maintainable easily by another person. Oh, well, there is always a next project to avoid Arduino. \\
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 === MQTT ===
 #TODO: Still missing. HeartBeat for smoke detector. \\
 As ESP8266 only provides WiFi as wireless communication, MQTT is added for a proper way to add the fan to smart homes. \\
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 So, how do disassemble it?
    - pull off fan rotor to the front (it is tightly stuck onto the shaft, consider winding a string behind all rotor blades and pull on that)
-   - losen all obvious screws
+   - losen all obvious screws on front and backside of fan
+{{gallery>:projects:maico-fan:hardware:photos:fan-motor}} \\